Return to the Grand Canyon: Part III
Posted on Tue, Jan 17, 2012 @ 09:04 AM
Our route this year starts at the Yaki Point drop off to the South Kaibab Trail. It is 7.1 miles (11.5 km) to the Black Bridge on the Colorado River. Phantom Ranch is about another mile across the river.
Tip: Yak Tracks or Ice Trekker Diamond Grip ice cleats are a must in winter. I used Yak Tracks last year and was very happy with them. This year, I am trying the Ice Trekker. Crampons are too extreme, in my opinion, for the distance you will cover. Be prepared for a full mile of ice, snow and mule droppings.
Tip: Yes, use walking poles. My first experience with them was very positive. And the heavier the load you are carrying, or the more problem-prone your knees, you will appreciate the added balance and lift received from the poles. If you are a senior hiker, remember to include your upper body in your training regimen. Your arms can take a lot of the weight off of your hips and knees if you practice pushing up with the poles as you step up the stairs on the trail.
Our return will begin at Phantom Ranch, again before dawn, following the Bright Angel Trail once we cross the Silver Bridge on the river. This 8.1 mile (13 km) trail is an ancient route that takes advantage of the arroyos cut by water falling from the South Rim. Much of the trail is sheltered from wind and sun. The vista is not as expansive as that from the Kaibab but, being in paradise, comparing one to the other is a bit picky!
The South Kaibab Trail has several rest areas with good toilets. There is virtually no water available on the trail. In contrast, Bright Angel has at least 3 good water stops, plus good toilets and rest areas. There are actual stone shelters in 3 or 4 locations on the Bright Angel trail.
Indian Gardens is a camping area at about the half-way point on Bright Angel. With a permit, you can spend the night in the established National Park camp spot. A small ranger station and very good water (pumped from the North Rim) is plentiful here.
Indian Gardens is a great place to rest at the half-way point of your journey. Last year, I had the pleasure of watching a couple of mule trains pass while I ate my lunch and thought about life. Very peaceful.
Tip: Beware! There are robbers on the trail! Keep an eye on all your gear: if you have food anywhere in your packs you will attract very bold Kaibab or Abert squirrels. These guys are extremely quick and will eat right through the toughest gear. I watched a group of seven hikers from Seattle defend themselves at a rest area and they lost! And if you see my string cheese tell those varmints I want it back!
If you have hiked the Grand Canyon, which trails do you prefer? Or if you have not yet voyaged there, which ones would you choose?
Share your experiences, or dreams, of expeditions to the Grand Canyon!
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